Fullertography: Cuba, si! (January 2019)

Ah, Cuba! The land of rum, red-hot nightclubs, those famous cigars . . . but ever since the Cuban Revolution led by Fidel Castro in 1959 plus that unpleasantness called the Bay of Pigs Invasion, the island has been mostly off-limits to Americans. In recent years, however, the Communist government loosened restrictions a bit, the Obama Administration loosened ours a bit (although the present administration later tightened them), but the net result is it's still easier to visit Cuba today.

And so Sheila and I began looking for a way to see it for ourselves. Cruise lines were now advertising Cuban itineraries, and after researching them, we found one we liked: Azamara Cruises, with stops in Havana, Cienfuegos, and Santiago de Cuba--plus a day at a Haitian resort on the way home. We signed up for the January 5 (2019) departure out of Miami.

The cruise lasted 10 days--two each in Havana, Cienfuegos, and Santiago de Cuba, and one in Labadee, Haiti, plus three days at sea. Not having traveled with Azamara, we were pleased to discover our ship, the "Journey," was familiar: It had been part of the Renaissance Cruises fleet, one we had taken on an eastern Mediterranean cruise in 2000. Alas, the company went out of business when travel nose-dived following the 9/11 attacks and their ships were sold off to other lines. The "Journey," built for Renaissance in 2000, is 594' long and carries 694 passengers plus a crew of 407--just the right size for us.

Our on-shore visits, despite some early apprehension, were pleasant and uninterrupted by police or other officials. Once we'd shown our visas at the port, we were free to walk wherever we wanted, no questions asked.

Being an amateur photographer I shot a whopping number of photos, but for this posting, I'm only presenting Havana. If there's sufficient interest, however, I'll prepare a follow-on show with the other cities we visited.

John

Approaching Havana Sunday morning, January 6, 2019.

At the mouth of Havana harbor stands Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro (Castle of the Three Kings of the Hill).

Approaching our cruise terminal in Old Havana.

These roofless terminal buildings haven't seen any freight business in a while.

Staring across our bow into Old Town Havana as we tie up.

You've heard of Cuba's fleet of American automobiles from the 1950s, right? Here's your first glimpse, with many more to come in these photos.

Our first exposure to Havana was on a bus tour that began with a brief stop at a memorial to the failed CIA-led Bay of Pigs invasion (April 1960)--plus more old cars to gawk at.

Next, we visited that fort guarding the entrance to Havana harbor.

Back in Havana for a walking tour and museum visit.

Our first stop: the City History Museum.

Yes, that's Christopher Columbus.

Next we walked from the museum along a street with a realistic mural depicting 19th century life in Havana, then to the square with the Cathedral of Havana, a popular outdoor cafe (temperatures were in the 75-82F range), and an "experimental graphics" shop where artists created posters on old presses.

We pass the front of our cruise terminal. There's my next car.

Back aboard our ship, we're gazing across at the MSC Armonia as it prepares to back out of its slip, depart Havana, and head out to sea. Backing out is accomplished with side thrusters mounted around the hull that slowly reposition the vessel wherever you want it to point.

Moving this gigantic ship draws a crowd as it slowly backs away from the street.

As the Cubans watch from the sidewalk, passengers watch the Cubans as Havana slowly fades away.

That evening we were taken to the National Museum of Fine arts for a performance by the Lizt Alfonso Dance Cuba Company--elements of flamenco, ballet, and contemporary dance with Spanish and Afro-Cuban rhythms.

We gather for the performance in the museum's open-air plaza. The fellow in the green shirt volunteered to take our picture (below).

Another bus tour along the Avenida del Puerto and more shots taken through the bus window. There's that harbor-entrance fort again.

The charmingly-named Parque de los Enamorados (Park of the Lovers) and a grand statue memorializing Maximo Gómez, a Major General in Cuba's Ten Years' War against Spain.

Near the park is this strange old building, the Museo Nacional de la Musica.

After crossing under the harbor and emerging on the opposite shore we head out into the countryside--and get glimpses of country life like this scene (again, shot through the bus's window).

We arrive at the cemetery of the United Hebrew Congregation, one of three Jewish historic sites on this particular bus tour.

Above, a memorial to Holocaust victims . . .

. . . on which Sheila places a stone of remembrance. The memorial contains slabs of soap the Nazis made from human remains.

Donning her genealogy cap, Sheila inspects a handwritten list of burials.

Heading back to Havana. How often do you see a canon pointed at the beach? "More nudity or we fire!"

Next stop: The Central Sephardic Hebrew Congregation of Havana.

Cuban cats and dogs wander the streets fending for themselves. Pets are perhaps a luxury many cannot afford . . .

Once again we pass the harbor entrance fort en route to another synagogue.

Walking toward the synagogue through a dicey part of the city.

This couple tickled me. When she spotted my camera, she grabbed her esposa (or enamorado) and struck this pose for me! So what the hell, I took their picture! They then walked away laughing . . .

We arrive at this Orthodox synagogue, Adath Israel. Note the barbed wire encircling the fence surrounding the entrance! Gulp.

"Beyond Borders / Share with Us"

Heading back to the marine terminal we pass interesting scenes but I have no idea where we are ;-) When the bus arrived at the terminal, Sheila and I jumped off and took a walk through this colorful part of Old Havana . . .

Note to other amateur photographers: Occasionally we get lucky ;-) I spotted this scene developing, and when the woman and old car had barely passed each other, I pressed the shutter.

A nice, wide view of the marine terminal.

And we're back aboard. Sheila's barely visible in the crosswalk as she boards.

"Okay, one more picture, but make it fast, I'm starving. It's 3 o'clock!"

Viewed from our ship, the dome of the Casa del Arabe (House of the Arabs) shines in late afternoon light.

The deafening ship's horn having sounded and scared the hell out of everybody on board, we begin our slow thruster-powered exit from Havana.

And now we face the sea--El Morro fort to starboard, the Malecón (waterfront street) on our port side.

This little fort in Old Havana is called El Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta (of the tip, or point).

Looking back where our ship had been berthed next to that Carnival ship.

The pilot boat zips pass us as we move out to sea. Once we've cleared the port area the boat will pull up alongside us to retrieve their pilot, who had boarded back at the terminal, taken control in the bridge, then skillfully guided us out of the harbor to prevent us from running aground or colliding with something. This is a standard maritime safety procedure for all ships.